Jewelry for men is a tricky subject. The right accessories can be a symphony’s crescendo, but the wrong ones can clash with your outfit and make you look like a drug dealer or mobster. Navigating this minefield takes a bit of expertise, confidence, and style, but there are some things you should know before you dive in.

The golden rule of jewelry for men is to keep it simple. The best way to avoid looking overdone is by sticking to one statement piece per ensemble. Then, add in a few subtle accent pieces to complement it. This can include cufflinks, tie bars, necklace chains, blazer buttons, and shirt studs.

Silver is the easiest metallic tone to work with. A silver Victorian ring or gothic signet pendant can be worn with most anything, and will look particularly good with more rugged attire, such as distressed denim jeans and lumberjack shirts. For a more understated, minimalist approach to silver, consider an unadorned tungsten or hammered titanium ring. Gold is another safe choice, and works well with most any type of apparel. It can also be used to create a bold, masculine look with gold-and-silver bracelets and cufflinks.

Bronze and copper-tone jewelry can be a bit bolder, and should be used with restraint. Adding a few bronze cufflinks or an heirloom copper ring to your casual look can be stylish, but too much can be overbearing. Similarly, earrings are harder to pull off, so only wear them to more casual occasions and stick with a single colored ear stud.

Gemstones can be a beautiful, earthen accent to any jewelry design. They’re also a great option for men who love the outdoors and are spiritual, as gemstones can carry metaphysical properties.

Pearls are a classic touch that can be extremely versatile, and they also work well with modern styles. For example, a pearl chain bracelet can pair well with a leather jacket, while a strand of cultured freshwater pearls can dress up a tuxedo.

For a modern twist on tradition, look to brands like Podium Chicago or Vitaly for sleek and eye-catching designs that defy gender norms. Or, check out the jewelry from menswear label Paul Smith for simple yet sophisticated jewelry that pairs perfectly with its sleek tailored pieces.

The key to mastering the art of jewelry for men is understanding that every accessory has its role in the theater of your look. Each outfit is a different scene in your life’s play, and the right pieces can help you transition seamlessly between each one.